Back to: Jss2 Home Economics (PVS)
Topic: Basic Pattern Drafting in Fashion Designing
WEEK: 6 & 7
Basic Pattern Drafting in Fashion Designing
Basic pattern drafting is an essential skill for fashion designers as it allows them to create custom-made garments that fit their clients perfectly. Pattern drafting involves creating a blueprint or template for the various pieces of a garment, such as a bodice, sleeves, and skirt.
To begin with, in basic pattern drafting in fashion designing, you need to have a good understanding of measurements, construction techniques, and basic sewing skills. You will also need to have access to tools like a measuring tape, ruler, pattern paper, and pencils.
The first step in pattern drafting is taking accurate measurements of the person who will be wearing the garment. This involves measuring the bust, waist, hips, and other relevant areas. Once you have these measurements, you can begin to draft the basic pattern for the garment.
The basic pattern typically consists of a front and back bodice, sleeves, and a skirt. You will need to create a block or template for each of these pieces using the measurements you have taken. This block will serve as the starting point for creating more complex designs.
Once you have created the basic pattern, you can begin to make adjustments to it to create different styles and designs. For example, you can add darts to the bodice to create a more fitted silhouette or change the neckline to create a different look.
As you gain more experience in pattern drafting, you can start to experiment with more complex designs, such as asymmetrical cuts, draping, and combining different fabrics and textures.
Drafting Basic Pattern
Drafting a basic pattern is the process of creating a template or blueprint of a garment or article of clothing that can be used to cut out the fabric and sew together the pieces. A basic pattern is a foundation for creating a variety of styles and designs.
Here are the basic steps for drafting a pattern:
- Take accurate measurements of the person who will be wearing the garment. This includes measurements of the chest, waist, hips, arm length, and shoulder width.
- Choose a pattern style or design. This will determine the shape and construction of the pattern.
- Draw the basic pattern shape onto a piece of pattern paper using a ruler and a pencil. The pattern should be drawn to scale and include all the necessary markings and labels, such as seam allowances and grain lines.
- Cut out the pattern pieces and lay them on top of the fabric, making sure to follow the grain line and placement marks.
- Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric and cut out each piece carefully.
- Use the pattern markings to guide the sewing process and assemble the garment according to the pattern instructions.
It’s important to note that drafting a basic pattern requires some knowledge of sewing and garment construction, as well as accurate measurement-taking skills. However, with practice and patience, anyone can learn to draft basic patterns and create their own custom-fit garments.
The Block of Pattern Drafting and Their Uses
Pattern drafting is the process of creating a pattern for a garment from scratch using specific techniques and measurements. There are several blocks of pattern drafting used in the fashion industry to create different types of garments.
These blocks of pattern drafting are the foundation for creating different types of garments, and they are essential for fashion designers and pattern makers to understand and master. By knowing how to create and modify these blocks, they can create unique designs that fit well and flatter the body. Some of the main blocks of pattern drafting and their uses are ;
- Bodice Block: A bodice block is used to create patterns for tops, blouses, jackets, and dresses that fit tightly at the upper body. The block is created by taking measurements of the bust, waist, and hip and then drawing a basic block that is then modified to fit different styles and designs.
- Skirt Block: A skirt block is used to create patterns for skirts of different lengths, styles, and shapes. The block is created by taking measurements of the waist and hip and then drawing a basic block that is then modified to fit different designs.
- Trouser Block: A trouser block is used to create patterns for pants, shorts, and trousers. The block is created by taking measurements of the waist, hip, and inseam and then drawing a basic block that is then modified to fit different styles and designs.
- Sleeve Block: A sleeve block is used to create patterns for sleeves of different lengths and shapes. The block is created by taking measurements of the armhole and the length of the sleeve and then drawing a basic block that is then modified to fit different designs.
- Collar Block: A collar block is used to create patterns for different types of collars, such as Peter Pan collars, stand collars, and mandarin collars. The block is created by taking measurements of the neckline and the width and length of the collar and then drawing a basic block that is then modified to fit different designs.
- Dress Block: A dress block is used to create patterns for dresses of different styles and shapes, such as shift dresses, A-line dresses, and maxi dresses. The block is created by combining the bodice block and skirt block and then modifying it to fit different designs.
- Lingerie Block: A lingerie block is used to create patterns for lingerie, such as bras, panties, and camisoles. The block is created by taking measurements of the bust, waist, and hip and then drawing a basic block that is then modified to fit different styles and designs.
Common Tools for Pattern Drafting
This is a table of some common tools for pattern drafting, along with a brief description of their uses:
Tool | Use |
Paper | Used as the base material for drafting patterns. |
Pencils | Used for marking measurements, lines, and notches on paper. |
Rulers | Used for drawing straight lines and measuring distances on paper. |
French Curve | Used for drawing curved lines and smoothing out jagged edges. |
L-square | Used for drawing perpendicular lines and checking right angles. |
Compass | Used for drawing circles and arcs. |
Tracing wheel | Used for transferring pattern markings onto fabric. |
Pattern weights | Used to hold pattern pieces in place while cutting. |
Dressmaker’s Shears | Used to cut fabric along pattern lines. |
Seam gauge | Used for measuring seam allowances and hems. |
Tape measure | Used for taking body measurements and measuring fabric. |
Tailor’s chalk | Used for marking fabric, especially dark or heavy fabrics. |
Pins | Used to hold fabric pieces together during sewing. |
Seam ripper | Used to remove unwanted stitches. |
These tools are essential for creating accurate and well-fitting patterns for sewing projects. Different patterns may require additional tools or specialized equipment, but the ones listed above are the most commonly used.
Practical
Construction of Block Patterns to Be Done in The Practical Class
The following are the steps involved in the practical construction of block patterns:
- Take accurate body measurements: The first step in the construction of a block pattern is to take accurate body measurements of the person for whom the pattern is being made. These measurements should be taken at various points on the body, including the bust, waist, hips, and shoulders.
- Draft the basic block pattern: Using the measurements taken in step 1, draft the basic block pattern on paper. The block pattern is a basic blueprint of the garment and includes the basic structure of the garment, such as the neckline, armhole, and waistline.
- Fit the block pattern: Once the basic block pattern has been drafted, it should be fitted on the person for whom the pattern is being made. This fitting process is critical to ensuring that the final garment will fit properly and look good.
- Make adjustments to the pattern: Based on the fitting process, adjustments will need to be made to the block pattern. These adjustments may include taking in or letting out seams, adjusting the length of the garment, or altering the neckline.
- Create the final pattern: Once the adjustments have been made to the block pattern, the final pattern can be created. This pattern will be used to cut the fabric and construct the garment.
- Cut and sew the garment: Using the final pattern, the fabric can be cut and the garment can be constructed. This process may involve using a sewing machine, serger, or other sewing equipment.
- Final fitting: Once the garment has been constructed, a final fitting should be done to ensure that it fits properly and looks good. Any final adjustments can be made at this point.
By following these steps, you can create a block pattern that can be used as a blueprint for constructing a wide range of garments.