Basic Sewing Processes - Myschoolpress

Topic: Basic Sewing Processes

WEEK: 8

Introduction

The Basic sewing processes refer to the fundamental techniques used in sewing fabrics together to create a finished product. These processes are essential for any sewing project, whether you are a beginner or an experienced sewer.

The first step in sewing is to choose the appropriate fabric for your project. Once you have your fabric, you will need to prepare it for sewing. This may involve washing, drying, and ironing the fabric to remove any wrinkles or sizing.

The next step is to lay out your pattern pieces on the fabric and cut them out. You can use scissors or a rotary cutter for this step, depending on your preference.

Once you have your pattern pieces cut out, it’s time to start sewing. The basic sewing processes include:

Straight stitching: This is the most basic sewing stitch and is used for sewing two pieces of fabric together along a straight line. You can adjust the stitch length and tension on your sewing machine to create different effects.
Zigzag stitching: Zigzag stitching is used to finish raw edges, such as on seams that will be exposed or on the edge of a hem. This stitch helps prevent fraying and adds a decorative touch.
Backstitching: Backstitching is used to reinforce the beginning and end of a seam, preventing it from unravelling. To backstitch, you simply sew a few stitches in reverse before continuing forward.
Hemming: Hemming is the process of folding and stitching the bottom edge of a garment to create a finished look. There are several different hemming techniques, including blind hemming and rolled hems.
Buttonholes: Buttonholes are used to create openings for buttons on a garment. There are several different types of buttonholes, including keyhole buttonholes and bound buttonholes.

These basic sewing processes are just the beginning of what you can do with a sewing machine. With practice, you can master these techniques and begin to explore more advanced sewing projects.

Meaning of Sewing

Sewing is the process of stitching fabric or other materials together to create a garment or other textile item. Basic sewing processes are the fundamental techniques and procedures used in sewing. These processes are essential for creating high-quality garments and other textile items. Some of the basic sewing processes include:

Measuring and cutting: Before you begin sewing, it is important to measure and cut the fabric according to the pattern instructions or your own measurements.
Sewing machine operation: Understanding the basic operation of a sewing machine is crucial for efficient and accurate sewing. This includes threading the machine, selecting the appropriate stitch, adjusting the tension, and using the foot pedal to control the sewing speed.
Sewing by hand: While most sewing is done with a machine, there are times when hand sewing is necessary. Basic hand-sewing techniques include threading a needle, knotting the thread, and creating basic stitches such as the running stitch and backstitch.
Seams: Seams are the lines of stitching that join two pieces of fabric together. There are many types of seams, including straight seams, curved seams, French seams, and bias-bound seams.
Hems: Hems are the finished edges of a garment or other textile item. There are many types of hems, including rolled hems, double-folded hems, and blind hems.
Darts: Darts are triangular-shaped folds of fabric that are sewn into a garment to create shape and contour. Darts can be used on many types of garments, including dresses, skirts, and blouses.
Zippers: Zippers are used to fasten garments and other items. Basic zipper installation techniques include centred zippers, lapped zippers, and invisible zippers.

STITCHING

Stitching refers to the process of joining two or more pieces of fabric or other materials together using a needle and thread or a sewing machine. It is a common technique used in clothing and textile manufacturing, as well as in crafting, upholstery, and many other industries.

There are many different types of stitching techniques, including hand stitching, machine stitching, embroidery, and quilting, among others. Each technique requires different skills and tools and may produce different types of stitches, such as straight stitches, zigzag stitches, or decorative stitches.

Stitching can also be a form of artistic expression. Many people enjoy creating unique designs and patterns with their stitches and may use embroidery, cross-stitching, or other techniques to create decorative items like wall hangings, clothing, and accessories.

Importance of Stitches in Clothing Construction

Stitches are an integral part of clothing construction, and they play a crucial role in ensuring that the garment is strong, durable, and aesthetically pleasing. Here are ten reasons why stitches are important in clothing construction:

Strength: Stitches add strength to the garment by holding the fabric together. A strong stitch will prevent the garment from tearing or falling apart, ensuring it lasts for a long time.
Durability: Stitches help to make the garment durable, meaning it can withstand wear and tear from daily use, washing, and ironing.
Fit: Stitches help to shape the garment to the wearer’s body, ensuring a good fit. The placement of the stitch can also create a flattering silhouette.
Comfort: Stitches that are properly placed and sewn can provide a comfortable fit, ensuring the garment doesn’t rub or chafe against the wearer’s skin.
Aesthetics: Stitches can also be used to create decorative details on the garment, adding to its overall aesthetic appeal.
Functionality: Stitches can be used to create functional details such as pockets, zippers, and buttons, making the garment more versatile and convenient.
Professional Finish: A garment with well-executed stitches appears more polished and professional, giving the wearer confidence and pride in their appearance.
Customization: Stitches can be used to customize a garment, such as adding personal details like embroidery or applique.
Creativity: Stitches offer a variety of creative opportunities, allowing the designer or creator to experiment with different patterns, colours, and textures.
Innovation: Stitches are constantly evolving, and new techniques and technologies are being developed to enhance the quality and functionality of the garment. Keeping up with these innovations ensures that the garment is made to the highest standards possible.

Types of Stitches

Temporary stitches, also known as basting stitches, are stitches used to temporarily hold two or more pieces of fabric together before they are permanently sewn. These stitches are often removed once the permanent stitches have been applied.

Here are some common types of temporary stitches and their uses:

Hand-basting stitch: This is a long, loose stitch made by hand using a needle and thread. Hand basting is often used to temporarily hold pieces of fabric together while fitting or altering a garment.
Machine basting stitch: Similar to hand basting, machine basting is done using a sewing machine. It’s a long, straight stitch that’s often used to temporarily hold the fabric together before sewing a permanent seam.
Pinning: Although not technically a stitch, pinning is a common way to temporarily hold the fabric together. Pins can be used to hold the fabric in place while sewing or to mark important points on a pattern.
Tacking stitch: A tacking stitch is a short, loose stitch made by hand or machine. It’s often used to temporarily hold the fabric in place before permanent stitches are added.
Tailor’s chalk or washable markers: These tools can be used to draw a temporary line on fabric that will guide the placement of permanent stitches. The chalk or marker can easily be washed or rubbed off once the sewing is complete.

Temporary stitches are useful for several reasons. They can help ensure that fabric pieces are lined up correctly before permanent stitching is applied, they can make it easier to fit or adjust a garment, and they can help prevent the fabric from shifting or bunching during sewing. Once the permanent stitches are added, the temporary stitches are removed, leaving a clean, finished seam.

PERMANENT STITCHES

Permanent stitches are a type of sewing technique used to create secure and long-lasting seams in a fabric. Here are some common types of permanent stitches:

Straight stitch: The straight stitch is the most basic and common type of permanent stitch. It is a simple stitch that is made by sewing forward and back in a straight line. This stitch is used for sewing seams and for attaching trim or binding.
Zigzag stitch: The zigzag stitch is used to prevent the edges of the fabric from fraying. It is made by sewing back and forth in a zigzag pattern. This stitch is commonly used for sewing stretchy fabrics, as it allows the seam to stretch without breaking.
Blind stitch: The blind stitch is a nearly invisible stitch that is made by sewing through only one layer of fabric at a time. It is used for hemming and finishing edges.
Overlock stitch: The overlock stitch is made by sewing over the edge of the fabric, creating a finished edge that will not fray. It is commonly used for sewing knits, as it provides a stretchy and durable seam.
French seam: The French seam is a type of permanent stitch that encloses the raw edges of the fabric within the seam, creating a neat and professional finish. It is commonly used for lightweight fabrics or delicate fabrics that fray easily.
Flat-felled seam: The flat-felled seam is a strong and durable seam that is commonly used in denim and other heavy fabrics. It is made by sewing two pieces of fabric together and then folding one edge over and sewing it down, enclosing the raw edge.

Permanent stitches are essential for creating high-quality and long-lasting garments or other fabric items. The type of stitch you choose will depend on the type of fabric you are working with, the purpose of the seam, and the desired finished look.

Embroidery or Decorative Stitches

Embroidery or decorative stitches refer to a variety of sewing techniques that are used to create decorative designs on fabric. These stitches are often used in combination with regular sewing stitches to add a touch of elegance, personalization, and uniqueness to garments, home decor items, and other textiles. Here are some common types of embroidery or decorative stitches and their explanations:

Satin stitch: A dense, smooth stitch that is used to fill in small areas with solid color. This stitch is often used for creating lettering or small designs.
Chain stitch: A looped stitch that creates a chain-like effect. This stitch is often used for outlining or creating curves and shapes.
Blanket stitch: A decorative stitch that is used to finish raw edges of fabric or to create a decorative border. This stitch can be used as an applique technique as well.
French knot: A small, raised knot that is used to create texture or add detail to a design.
Cross stitch: A stitch that creates an X-shaped pattern. This stitch is often used for creating decorative motifs or repeating patterns.
Running stitch: A simple stitch that is used for basic embroidery or to create a temporary hold for fabric layers.
Backstitch: A strong stitch that creates a continuous line. This stitch is often used for outlining or creating borders.
Feather stitch: A decorative stitch that creates a wavy line effect. This stitch can be used for creating borders, filling in areas, or creating texture.
Stem stitch: A stitch that creates a twisted rope-like effect. This stitch is often used for creating curved lines or lettering.
Buttonhole stitch: A sturdy stitch that is used to reinforce buttonholes and prevent fraying. This stitch can also be used for creating decorative borders or as an applique technique.

These are just a few examples of the many embroidery or decorative stitches that exist. The possibilities for combining and layering these stitches to create unique designs are endless and can add a personalized touch to any sewing project.

Seams

SEAMS refers to the stitching that joins two pieces of fabric together to create a garment or other textile item. In sewing, a seam is created by stitching together two or more layers of fabric along a line, often with a sewing machine or by hand. The term SEAMS can also refer to the way in which the stitching is finished or treated, such as by pressing the seam open or trimming the excess fabric. Understanding different types of seams and how to create them is an important part of learning how to sew and construct clothing or other textile items.

Points to Consider when Choosing a Seam

Strength: Consider the strength needed for the particular garment. For example, a reinforced seam like a flat-felled seam is stronger than a plain seam and would be more suitable for heavy-duty garments like jeans.
Stretch: If the garment requires a stretch, like in sportswear or leggings, then a stretchy seam like a serged seam or a flatlock seam would be more appropriate.
Appearance: The appearance of the seam can also be a factor to consider. For instance, a visible seam like a topstitch would be suitable for decorative purposes while an invisible seam like a blind hem would be suitable for a neat, clean finish.
Sewing machine: The type of sewing machine used can also influence the choice of the seam. For example, a serged seam can only be done on a serger machine, while a flat-felled seam requires a special foot on a regular sewing machine.
Skill level: The sewer’s skill level can also determine the type of seam to use. For beginners, a simple seam like a plain seam or a zigzag stitch may be more suitable, while experienced sewers can handle more complicated seams like a welt seam or a princess seam.

Types of Seam

ZIGZAG SEAM: This seam is used to join fabrics that are likely to fray. It is also used on knit fabrics because it stretches with the fabric. To make:

Place the right sides of fabric together.
Mark the seam line.
Sew with a zigzag stitch, making sure that the stitch catches the fabric edge.
Trim excess fabric close to the zigzag stitching.
Press the seam open or to one side.

BINDING SEAM: This seam is used to join two edges of the fabric with a strip of binding. It is suitable for heavy fabrics. To make:

Place the right sides of the fabric together.
Place the binding strip right side together with the fabric edges.
Sew through all layers.
Press the binding strip away from the seam and the seam allowance towards the binding strip.
Fold the binding strip over to the back of the fabric.
Press and slip stitch the binding strip in place on the back of the fabric.

FLAT-FELLED SEAM: This is a flat seam that is strong and durable. It is suitable for denim, canvas, and other heavy fabrics. To make:

Place the right sides of the fabric together.
Sew a plain seam with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Trim one seam allowance to about 1/8 inch.
Fold the other seam allowance over the trimmed seam allowance and press.
Fold the folded seam allowance over the other seam allowance and press.
Sew through all layers close to the folded edge of the second seam allowance.

BOUND SEAM: This is a seam that is finished with a strip of binding. It is suitable for lightweight fabrics that fray easily. To make:

Place the right sides of the fabric together.
Sew a plain seam with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Trim one seam allowance to about 1/8 inch.
Fold the binding strip in half lengthwise and press.
Place the folded binding strip over the raw edge of the trimmed seam allowance.
Sew through all layers close to the folded edge of the binding strip.

Open or Plain Seam: This is a commonly used seam that leaves raw edges which need to be finished. It is simple and has little bulk. To make it,

place the right side of the material together
mark the seamline
pin and tack
sew from the wrong side with proper seam allowance
remove tacking thread
Press open the seam
finish or neaten the raw edges.

French Seam: This is a flat seam that does not show from the right side and is suitable for children’s clothes. All raw edges are enclosed. To make it

place the wrong sides of the fabric pieces together
pin and tack along the fitting line
remove pins
sew 3-6mm nearer the edge than the seam line using back-stitch or machine
trim the seam allowance carefully
remove tacking, and fold the fabric right sides together
roll the seam between fingers and thumbs until stitching is along the edge
tack, press into place
sew along the seam line
remove tacking and press.

Run-and-Fell Seam: This seam lies flat with two rows of stitching on the right side of the garment, and all raw edges are enclosed. It is strong and durable. To make it

place the wrong side of the fabric together
make a plain seam, press the seam to one side,
trim the underneath seam allowance to about 3mm,
trim the upper seam allowance to about 10mm
fold and press the upper seam allowance over the lower one
sew through all layers close to the folded edge, and press.

Lapped or Overlaid Seam: This seam is visible on the right side and is very strong. It is commonly used on curved or pointed seams where stitching from the inside is difficult. It is also used to give a decorative effect. To make it

mark the lapping lines on each piece of fabric
turn under the seam allowance on the overlay to the wrong side
Press and tack into place
prepare the underlay
place the overlay right side up on the underlay
match fitting lines and patterns
pin and tack the folded edge of the overlay onto the seam line of the underlay
sew 3-6mm from the fold through all layers
trim and neaten the seam allowances on the wrong side.